Atelier Transylvania - An ethical fashion production through architecture

Detta är en Master-uppsats från Lunds universitet/Institutionen för arkitektur och byggd miljö

Sammanfattning: The author of this work has launched a Swedish brand producing fine quality leather goods and acquired an atelier operating in the heart of Transylvania, Romania, with the manufacturing of leather goods since 1991. The production house now needs a new building in Cluj in order to grow and meet the new work ethics. As a response to the collapse of a sewing factory building in Bangladesh 2013, killing 1100 people, the so called fashion revolution emerged, where consumers, brands and producers strive for an ethical and sustainable fashion production. How can I through architecture implement these core beliefs of an ethical production into the design of the new factory building? In the analysis of factories I found that factories tend to focus solely on the production needs rather than the human needs in contrary to most architecture. Factories use to be closed enclaves with little connection to the outside world, creating mystery for the outsiders and a cage-like feeling for its workers, with lack of natural daylight. In order to be flexible and cost effective they use to comprise a single large volume with no attention to acoustics which further results in noisy and unhealthy environments. Through analysing the common factory issues, combined with the company needs and interviews I came forth with a program. I then found a suitable industrial context in an area with similar factories on a central site to get as much exposure as possible as I want the building to spread the vision of an ethical production. The building landed on the site without interfering with the pre existing paths going around it through adapting to the grid of the site. By using wood as the facade material, from the pre existing birch trees on the site, the building further blends in to the context, while letting the woods visual softness together with the organic shaped plan be an allegory to leather which is soft but still structured. In order to give the best logistics between the production, the visitors and the employees I divided the program into three floors. A ground floor with an exhibition area in order to present our products for the clients and visitors, a single in/out-put of goods and keep the large and noisy machines on this floor. The second floor is entirely dedicated to production in order to elevate the views and has a round going production adapted to the shape of the building in order for the finished products to get back to the one elevator out of efficiency purpose. To show our core belief for the well-being of our employees I have dedicated an entire floor to recreational purpose such as a canteen with free catering, panoramic views over the surroundings, relaxing units and access to a terrace surrounding the building with a circumference of 120 meters, perfect for walks during breaks to ease ones mind and to give back the nature under the foot print of the building. An atrium functions as the core of the building and connects the three floors through a central spiral staircase that like a serpentine encloses the space. The atrium lets plenty of daylight through and creates a logical spacial experience and connection between the floors. The birch wood is consistent on the inside as well. As the key goal was to get as much natural light as possible and panoramic views I have designed a load bearing steel structure out of pillar and beams with large spans. The panoramic views connect to the surrounding landscape for the employees to enjoy and to better communicate with the by-passers by letting them glance parts of our production to get rid of the mystery concerning factories. To block the direct sunlight from reaching the leather I have designed an interlocking waffle effect facade with enough depth to keep the sun rays away during the work hours. Through architecture I have now shaped a better working environment by plenty of natural light, ventilation, recreational space, visual connection to the surroundings while even enhancing production logistics. I have now enforced the fashion revolution through the means of architecture and manage to spread the vision further by our exposure to the surrounding factories and visiting brand representatives. They will all get to know the cause we are fighting for and challenge them to fulfil the same mission - that the people should be the center of attention even in production and the products will get even better as a result. I have well managed to fulfil and surpass the needs of the client into a building that completely redefines the meaning of a factory.

  HÄR KAN DU HÄMTA UPPSATSEN I FULLTEXT. (följ länken till nästa sida)