Development and characterization of an eco-friendly cosmeceutical formulation with optimal performance.

Sammanfattning: Cosmetic innovations are about finding high performing creative solutions that deliver into the consumer trends. The consumer trend within the cosmetic industry is currently driving a growing demand for more clean, natural skin care products with sustainable credentials. Enhanced delivery to and interaction with the skin can be achieved through knowledge-based design and characterization of delivery vehicles used for the formulation. The aim of this work was to design and characterize delivery vehicles with enhanced bioavailability and efficacy of bioactive lipids by optimizing the ingredients types and interactions. Firstly, binary emulsifier / water systems, were microscopically characterized and the high purity soy hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine (soy HPC1) produced liquid lamellar phases at compositions of 2 - 40% w/w. Secondly, the ternary phase microstructure of soy HPC1 / water / shea triglyceride system was evaluated using optical microscopy and small-angle X-ray scattering (SAXS). The existence of two-phase regions of liquid lamellar crystalline phase (La) and cubic phases, single phase regions of (La) and mixtures of (La) and gel phase was observed at investigated concentrations of 2% - 40% w/w of emulsifier with the concentration of shea triglycerides (TG) maintained at 15% w/w. At a low concentration of 2%, soy HPC1 formed La structures and was chosen as emulsifier of choice for the formulation. The lead formulation was designed with addition of other key ingredients and evaluated. Microscopy and SAXS results of the lead formulation showed La structures and light scattering showed an average droplet size of 68 um with high polydispersity. This was considered ideal for enhanced delivery of both photosteroyl canola glycerides and shea butter triterpene esters. The lead formulation was milky in colour, visually slightly viscous with a silky sensorial feeling on the skin. Further work should be done to optimize the formulation, improve the texture and stability and evaluate the functionality.