Lignin in Cosmetics: State of the Art : Discerning the value of lignin in the cosmetic industry

Sammanfattning: This study was carried out at the Department of Nanotechnology and Functional Materials,Uppsala University, one of several places where the interest of lignin in cosmetics is constantly growing. The functionalities of lignin have been studied to a great extent revealing its potential as a natural biopolymer to serve as a replacement for environmentally hazardous components in cosmetic formulations, namely UV-filters in sunscreens. Using ethnographic methods and qualitative interviews the lignin-cosmetic industry was observed and analyzed in order to discern how concerned the industry is with ecological andaesthetic value. Ecological value is a hallmark of the value proposition in the cosmetic industry, and leaders of the industry indeed share this view. The analysis further revealed that the actors of the lignin-cosmetic industry are at different stages of development and that as of this year we can expect the first product to be launched. Furthermore, the value chain of the lignin actors was identified and for the first time mapped out in detail from the qualitative analysis that was carried out targeting lignin actors within the lignin-cosmetic industry. Mapping the value chain revealed the actors included in the entire chain identified as biorefinery, manufacturer, modifier, formulator, distributor and retailer which together compose the lignin-cosmetic value chain. A qualitative, semi structured interview approach was used and adapted as we met with eleven actors interviewing them about ecological and aesthetic values in the lignin based product value proposition. The grounded theory was applied to analyze the data, generating eight categories representing the concepts comprising ecological and aesthetic values of the value proposition. The kernel category, Green Profile, explains the most important concepts valued by lignin actors in terms of what ecological and aesthetic value could be offered to be appealing to customers. The findings of this study reveals the current situation of lignin in the cosmetic market as of today, and discerns where the value of lignin lies. The understanding of lignin actors' values contributes to the current gray-area in biopolymer research, lacking information on the value chain of lignin in cosmetics. The findings therefore foster the advancement of sustainable innovative solutions for cosmetics and personal care.